When we arrived in Europe after four months of crazy transportation adventures in Southeast Asia, the open borders of the EU felt like a dream.  Buses and trains took us from country to country without ever having to worry about passport checks or making transfers at the border.  However, reaching the Balkans marked the end of seamless travel and a return to more… arduous modes of transport.

To get from Mostar to Dubrovnik we had to cross the Bosnia-Croatia border.  Twice.  Dubrovnik is in a part of Croatia that is separated from the rest of the country and surrounded by Bosnia and Montenegro on all sides.  For some reason that we couldn’t quite understand, our bus route involved crossing into Croatia, then back into Bosnia before crossing into Croatia again. 

Since Bosnia isn’t part of the EU this meant stopping at border control multiple times.  Instead of making everyone get off the bus to get their passports stamped the driver collected them all.  He handed the whole bundle over to the border agents and then redistributed them once we were on the other side.  Since no one actually looked at the passport and the supposed passport holder at the same time we wondered, what was to keep someone from traveling with a passport that wasn’t theirs?  But we figured it was best not to ask questions.

Originally we hadn’t planned on visiting Croatia at all.  We’d heard good things but also that it had been fully ‘discovered’ by tourists.  We were trying to save money and avoid crowds so it seemed best to save it for another trip.   However, when we looked at a map and realized that Dubrovnik was basically on our way to Montenegro we decided it was worth stopping for a few days.

Dubrovnik was definitely our most expensive stop in the Balkans but we were able to find a decent deal on a cute Airbnb not too far from the old town.  Our hostess gave us the rundown on things to do and see in the area and warned us to check how many cruise ships were docked before venturing into the old city.  

Taking in the city from above

One of the first things we did was take a cable car up the mountain behind Dubrovnik.  The views from the top were gorgeous and it was nice to get away from the crowds below.

We decided to walk back down which involved zigzagging along the side of the hill until we reached the bottom.  It took a while because I needed to stop and take pictures every few minutes.  The view of the coastline was just amazing.

Walking the city walls

The main attraction in Dubrovnik is the old city walls.  These medieval walls surround the entire town, protecting it from invaders.  You must buy a ticket to climb up on top of the walls.  Then you can circumnavigate the whole city, enjoying absolutely stunning views along the way.

We had been advised to visit the walls later in the afternoon after many of the cruise ship tourists had left.  This meant we were a little tired but I think it was the right call.  There were quite a few people making the loop with us but it wasn’t crowded.  Plus the late afternoon light was lovely.

In many ways the old city doesn’t feel like a true ‘city’ where people live.  But as we walked along the walls and got further from the center we got a little glimpse of daily life.

As a reward for all our walking, we ended the day with a seafood dinner overlooking the harbor.  The restaurants in the old city are touristy but the food was delicious and you can’t beat this view.

Exploring the rest of town

We started our final day in Dubrovnik with a visit to Fort Lovrijenac, a stone fortress located across a little bay from the old town.  Entrance to the fort was included in our tickets for the city walls.  If it hadn’t been I’m not sure the fort would have been worth a visit on its own.  It is mostly an empty stone building but it does offer some more great views.

After the fort we made our way over to the Lapad neighborhood.  This part of Dubrovnik is comparatively modern and quiet.  Its main draw is a series of beaches and cliff-side bars.  It was a great place to catch a sunset.

Dubrovnik was a good reminder that some places are touristy for a reason.  The old city is simply exquisite.  Every building is a beautifully crafted work of art.  Even the stone streets and wooden shutters add to the overall effect.

It’s easy to bemoan the rise of mass tourism as ‘ruining’ places like this but, like a great work of art, Dubrovnik deserves to be seen and experienced.  Sometimes it is worth braving the crowds to check something off the bucket list.