When we got on the bus to from Hoi An to Hue it almost immediately started to rain.  When we got off the bus in Hue it was still raining and quite cold.  We later learned that the Hai Van mountain pass between Hoi An and Hue essentially divides north and south Vietnam into two distinct climates.  Even though Hue is less than 80 miles from balmy Hoi An, suddenly it was winter.

The fact that it did not stop raining for the two full days we were there may have tainted our view of Hue.  The dreary atmosphere dampened our moods as well as our clothes and it made it hard to get a true impression of the city.

Wet or not, though, we knew we couldn’t miss seeing the Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. One of the most important historical sites in Vietnam, it was built while Hue was the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty between 1804 and 1833.

The buildings, gardens and gateways within the Imperial Enclosure are in various states of ruin and disrepair.  Many were badly damaged during the Vietnam War but there has been an impressive restoration effort.

The best part about exploring the Enclosure was that once we got past the main buildings near the entrance the hoards of tour groups disappeared and we got to wander through many of the more remote corners all by ourselves.

The dreary weather complemented the ruins well.  I loved getting to discover hidden gateways and courtyards sprinkled throughout the once-grand Imperial City.

On our second day in Hue we braved the rain again for what google maps said would be a 1 hour walk and went on a very long walk to visit another important monument, the Thien Mu Pagoda.

The walk in the rain actually took two hours but despite the weather and the miserable time getting there, it was a peaceful retreat from the city-center.

One very special thing about Hue that I didn’t do a good job of documenting is the food.  Hue has a unique cuisine all its own and the food we had there was unlike any you have seen in a Vietnamese restaurant in the United States.

We tried banh beo (little rice cakes topped with dried shrimp), bun bo hue (beef and noodle soup), banh khaoi (a crispy fried crepe filled with bean sprouts, pork and shrimp) and many other dishes we haven’t found anywhere else.  I failed at taking any food photos but you can read more about many of these dishes here.

Hue really showed me that the weather can have a big impact on my impression of a place and it is hard to love a place you have only experienced while cold and wet. However, Hue tried hard to impress us and I certainly wouldn’t mind spending more time there- but probably during a warmer time of year.