Visiting Vienna and Melk Abbey

Visiting Vienna and Melk Abbey

From Budapest we hopped on a train to Vienna, another big city that would end up being a bit of a whirlwind.  I didn’t know what to expect from Vienna.  Before arriving I knew very little about Austrian culture.

Hapsburg Palace Vienna
The Hapsburg Palace is one of many reminders of the glory of the Austro-Hungarian Empire sprinkled around Vienna.

I imagined Vienna as a city of manicured plazas, grand palaces, and opera houses.  This is accurate to a certain extent but Vienna has a lot more to offer.  These are some of my favorite things we did there.

Visiting the Kunsthistorisches Museum

I studied art history in college and since then I’ve had a bucket list of must-visit art museums.  The Kunsthistorisches Museum was definitely one that I couldn’t wait to visit.

Kunsthistoriches Museum, Vienna
The imposing facade of the massive Kunsthistorisches Museum.

The museum did not disappoint.  The first gallery we walked into was full of exquisite Titians (one of my favorite artists) so I was immediately smitten.  The Kunsthistorisches is huge and it could easily get exhausting if you try to see too much.  We made sure to eat beforehand and allotted several hours to explore but we still didn’t make it to the lower floor.

One thing I didn’t know before visiting the museum: the museum actually hired famous artist, Gustav Klimt to decorate some of the interior walls.

Klimt at Kunsthistorisches
One of Klimt’s beautiful paintings representing different artistic periods.

Klimt completed this commission before he became a household name. The paintings are designed to be viewed from the floor.  However, due to Klimt’s massive popularity the museum has installed a platform so that viewers can get a closer view of these magnificent works.

Checking Out Street Art Along the River

For a very different view into the Vienna art scene we spent one warm afternoon walking along the Danube river admiring the local street art.

street art Vienna
One of my favorite paintings we found on our walk. The chairs in front of it belong to a riverside bar.

For quite a ways the walls lining the edge of the river have been transformed into an open air gallery.  There’s an eclectic mix of large murals, small graffiti art and even a few sculptures.  It was great to see some of Vienna’s edgier, contemporary art scene.  Props to Spencer for finding this area as I had no idea it even existed!

Coffee Houses

Vienna is famous for its coffee houses.  I had imagined these historic cafes would be pretentious, overpriced and uninviting.  Some of them probably are but the ones we visited were great for an afternoon break with a delicious dessert.

cafe sperl, vienna
Cafe Sperl was my favorite coffee house that we visited. It was cozy and charming with a great old-world vibe.

Viennese coffee houses have a long tradition as hangouts for artists and intellectuals.  Many still provide newspapers and no one will mind if you spend the whole afternoon there, reading and enjoying an espresso.

chocolate cake and coffee
This delicious chocolate torte from Cafe Sperl was the perfect accompaniment to an afternoon coffee.

Taking a Dip in the Alte Danube

Swimming in the Alte Danube is a popular summer pastime in Vienna.  The Alte Danube is a part of the Danube river that’s closed off on both ends, basically creating a giant outdoor swimming pool.

Vienna’s residents know how to beat the heat without a beach: taking a dip in the river.

August in this part of Europe is HOT. We knew we weren’t going to be making it to a beach any time soon so I was super excited to head to the river.  I love that city-dwellers have found a great way to cool off and enjoy the outdoors without having to leave town.

Day Trip to Melk Abbey

Melk Abbey is a Benedictine monastery and school located in the Austrian countryside, just a quick train ride from Vienna.  The abbey itself is an absolutely stunning structure, massive and bright yellow, perched dramatically on a hill.

melk abbey, Austria
Melk Abbey is certainly striking. Here you can see the towers of its main church.

A visit to the abbey includes a museum, a gorgeous library (which unfortunately you aren’t allowed to photograph) and the main church.  The museum was a little strange, using surprisingly modern and interpretive displays to showcase the abbey’s treasures.  The library was magical, though, and the terrace outside the church offered lovely views of the countryside.

View from Melk Abbey
The birds-eye-view of the Austrian countryside from Melk looked like something from a storybook.

My favorite part of our visit to the abbey was the church.  The interior of the church can only be described as opulent.  Gold capitals crown every column.  Vibrant painted angels and cherubs flit across the ceiling.

We happened to arrive in the church just as the monks were coming in for their afternoon prayers.  As soon as we sat down the organ began to play.  The reverberating music filling that ornate space was quite moving.  It really made me understand how this space was designed to give parishioners a glimpse of the heavenly reward the church promises them.

After visiting the abbey we spent wandered around the gardens, which are included with your ticket.  There’s not a ton to see but it was a lovely place for a walk, with a combination of manicured and wooded areas.

melk abbe gardens
This lovely building sits in the abbey’s gardens and houses a little cafe.

The town of Melk, which surrounds the abbey, is cute but pretty touristy.  The main street is dominated by souvenir shops, overpriced restaurants and boutique hotels.

Melk Abbey
Melk Abbey hovers above the town of Melk, dominating the skyline.

Overall, a visit to Melk Abbey is a great way to escape the city and get a glimpse of small town Austria.

Vienna, as a whole, surprised me.  I expected it to feel pompous and stuffy.  But Vienna is actually extremely laid back and everyone we interacted with was friendly and welcoming.  There are plenty of signs of Vienna’s history as the capital of a major empire but there are just as many of an enjoyable modern city.

2 thoughts on “Visiting Vienna and Melk Abbey

  1. Heather, Don’t know if you two plan on getting back to Paris on your travels, but there is a fantastic Klimt exhibit there through January that is not to be missed. Thanks for the lively writings!

    1. Thanks for the tip! Sadly we’re not going to make it to Paris on this trip. We have less than a month left- Athens, Amsterdam, Boston then back to California!

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