If I had been planning this part of the trip by myself I probably wouldn’t have gone to Salzburg.  It’s not a typical backpacker destination (probably because it’s expensive).  Other than vague ideas about Mozart and the Sound of Music I didn’t know what it would have to offer.  However, Dan found out that the world’s largest ice cave is near Salzburg and couldn’t wait to see it.  Sam and Spencer were easily convinced and I was happy to come along for the ride.

Summer in Salzburg is all about the Salzburg Festival: a month-long series of classical music, theater and opera performances.  The festival was in full swing when we arrived and the city was packed with tourists.  We didn’t know about the festival until shortly before we got there so, unfortunately, all of the affordable shows were sold out.  We did get to watch a recording of a past opera performance projected in a plaza right below the castle, a pretty cool experience.

For me, our time in Salzburg stands out primarily for two reasons.  The first is that Salzburg is one of the most aesthetically beautiful places I have ever been.

The winding river, the church towers and domes and the majestic castle perched above it combine for amazing vistas.  And then there are the mountains.  Salzburg is where we got our first view of the Alps as they spring up around the edges of the city.

The other thing that made our time in Salzburg special was the Augustiner Bräustübl.  This beer hall (which I sadly don’t have any pictures of) was one of our favorite drinking establishments of the whole trip.

It’s located in a monastery and when we first arrived we didn’t think we were in the right place.  We walked down a completely empty corridor decorated with religious art before opening the door to a hallway filled with snack stalls that finally led to an enormous beer garden.

The garden was filled with locals and visitors of all ages enjoying some cold beer under the trees. I loved the laid back vibe. It provided the perfect respite from the hot and crowded city.  We came twice during our three days in town.  If you’re ever in Salzburg don’t miss it.

Visiting Eisriesenwelt: The World’s Biggest Ice Cave

At this point we had seen a lot of caves on this trip but we had never been to an ice cave.  So when Dan realized that the largest ice cave in the world is an easy day trip from Salzburg we were excited for the adventure.

Getting to the cave is a multi-step process but it was fairly easy.  We started with a train from Salzburg to Werfen, then a shuttle bus to the visitor center followed by a 20 minute hike to a cable car and, finally, another short hike to the cave entrance.

The views during the ascent were truly out of this world and made the trip worthwhile before we even arrived at the actual cave.

The visit to the cave is by guided tour and involves walking up and down 700 steps (which helps keep you warm).  Inside, the only light comes from gas lanterns carried by the visitors and magnesium wicks held by the guide.  Unfortunately you aren’t allowed to take photos inside but Google ‘Eisriesenwelt’ and you can find images of the dramatic ice formations.

The ice cave was such a cool experience.  I’m continually surprised by the variety of forms that nature’s beauty can take.  Salzburg might not have been at the top of my list but we had a great time.  It was definitely a worthy stop.